TitleGarrison

No bird ever flew nonstop from New York to Tokyo, or raced 15 miles high at triple the speed of sound.                                                                                                   
  But birds do something else.
  They do not conquer the air; they romance it.
.”

  Peter Garrison

HoursAndCounting

Jur's RV7 Aircraft Factory
2917 hours
and counting
Some decisions in life are bare of any obvious logic

 

Tool overview

After a long trip from Texas, over Pittsburgh and Toronto, the tools finally made it to my workshop in Belgium.

The next picture show the full overview of what I ordered layed out on my workshop table.

As you could see in the other articles on tools, I ordered the Avery tools RV builders kit (part nr KIT-106). The whole kit is layed out on the table including some additionally ordered tools that other fellow builders advised me to purchase right away to avoid more shipping cost later. When I finally got my hands on these tools, I was very very pleased with the quality. I saw some tools before from other vendors at fellow builder locations and I have to say that there is an ocean of difference in quality.

The good old saying applies here: you get what you pay for ! The difference in price is not significant enough to go with the cheap stuff.

Let's dig into the details.

The PAN AM 1/4" AIR DRILL. It gets up to 4000 RPM. Another one with a teasing trigger. I read in various locations that this feature is an absolute must.

Here is a tools that was not part of the standard RV builder tool kit. I ordered this one seperatly. If you already have an electric dremel, you don't need this. I didn't so I ordered this on based on air power.

You can find it in the avery catalog as the 1/4" DIE GRINDER, as part 7758. This is compatible with the miniature scotchbrite wheels in the kit.

The 90° angle drill kit is delivered with the kit and contains all required drill bits.

This is the 3" avery hand squeezer. Used to set rivets using hand power. It comes with one C-shaped squeezer yoke. You will need to order some additional ones for hard to reach placed. This squeezer is actually pretty low quality and requires tons of force to set a rivet or dimple. The one from cleveland tools is the one you should buy instead.

These are my 2 additional longeron squeezer yokes. (left top and bottom). The G shaped (part 7755) one comes in handy when you need to rivet on inside corners with folded over tips. The small one for narrow places.

They are designed for both CP 214 style pneumatic squeezers and Avery hand rivet squeezers. Made from 4130 steel, heat treated before machining to eliminate warping, then precision machined and hand finished.

Here is the rivet gun. I have never used one of these before. The other buliders told me to get a 3X because the 2X is too light to set some of the more heavier rivets.

You can still control the air inlet with an air regulator valve for the lighter rivets if needed. This baby has a teasing-trigger. The accessories delivered along are a beehive spring and a quick change spring.

This is my set of bucking bars. Some other builders adviced me to find a good mix of different shapes.

The kit comes with 3 bucking bars. On the left, the 620 bucking bar, On the right, item 615. The smalles one is the TUNGSTEN BUCKING BAR - 5/8" X 1" X 4".

The second one I bought extra.

These are the rivet heads. These pieces are mounted in the rivet gun to fit the right type of rivets.

From left to right: FLUSH swivel rivet set, 1/8" rivet set, Back rivetting set and 1/8" double offset rivet set.

The left picture is a set of dimple dies. Dimple dies are used to form dimples (little insertions/bumps) in the material to be rivetted so that the rivet sits flush againt the material. The small kit contains all required sizes.

Second picture is a 6 piece squeezer set mix. It contains some head to manually set rivets with the manual rivet squeezer.

The third picture is a 3/32" vise grip dimpler.I haven't got it figured out yet but I assume it's used to set dimples in hard to reach places.

The fourth picture is a 3/32" pop rivet dimple. Same principle, but here the dimple is set by using the manual pop rivet tool.

The stainly pop rivet squeezer.

360° SWIVEL HAND POP RIVET TOOL STANLEY brand professional hand pop rivet tool. Unique head design swivels 360° - for riveting in any position, at any angle. It has an extended nose for hard to reach places. Built-in handle latch. Die-cast aluminum & hardened steel construction. Molded grips. Includes (4) interchangeable steel nose-pieces for: 3/32”, 1/8”, 5/32” & 3/16” rivets.

Midwest aviation snips. Blades are austemper heat treated, producing a hard cutting edge that outlast all others. Full length pinch to point cuts up to 18 gauge sheet metal. Heavy gauge steel handles maximize force into cutting power at blades. Comfortable grips soft and durable copolymer won’t twist or wear though. The Red one is the left hand snip, the green one the right hand snip. It did not feel the need to buy a straight one at this point.

 

This is the countersink kit that is delivered with the kit from avery. Looks like good quality and robust material. I heared from many builders that good countersinking is one of the most challenging tasks in the building process.
This kit gives you five of the most popular countersink cutters, plus one needle bearing countersinks, plus a molded storage case with laser cut foam. Keeps the tools organized. Includes: (1 each) #40, #30, #27, #20, & #12 countersinks & #19365 cage.

Some of the more exotic tools. A fluting plier, hand dimpler and hand seamer tool.

On the left is the vise grip style fluting plier. Makes narrow & precise flutes for straightening ribs and bulkheads easier & better than pliers with molded jaws. Made from a 7” VISE GRIP pliers. Jaws are 3/16” dia. stainless steel pins TIG welded to Vise Grips .
The idea here is to make small indents in the aluminum at various chosen locations in rib in order straighten them before final assembly.

The center image shows a vise grip dimpler. Made for dimpling in restricted and hard to reach places where regular dimple dies won’t fit. Made from a 7 ” VISE GRIP plier. Machined tool steel dimple dies are T.I.G. welded to the VISE GRIP jaws then polished.

The right hand picture shows the hand seamer / 3-1/2” jaw. Has a vise grip locking feature to aid clamping & holding your work. Used for straightening and bending rib and bulkhead flanges. Made from a 7” VISE GRIP plier. Jaws are 3/16” X 1” X 3-1/2” stainless steel with 3/32” radius on front of jaws. Jaws Tig welded to Vise Grips.

The cleco pliers. One of those tools you will use until your hands will be soar. A followed the builders advices and bought an extra one right away. Always usefull also when someone stops by to help you out with the cleco-ing.

And now that we are talking about cleco's, here they are :

These little marvels are fun to work with. I already had some experience with these when helping out my friend Michael who is building a sonex. It's a real pleasure doing this kind of work as it is very constructive and looks impressive with all the little cleco's attached.

The cleco's in the kit come in various size.

The silver (zinc) colored ones are 3/32" size, the kit comes with 325 of those and I ordered immediatly 100 extra of these.

The copper colored ones are 1/8". There are 175 of those in the kit. I ordered 50 more of those

The black colored are 5/32". 10 of those in the kit.

The gold ones are 3/16". Also 10.

Clamps are tools you can never have enough. These are the types I purchased. The first picture are vise grip style clamps. The two pictures next to it show cleco style clamps.

The cleco style clamps come with the standard rv kit. I purchased the vise grips seperatly.

The picture on the right shows the 1/2" X 1/2" and 1/2" X 1" SIDE GRIP. The kit comes with 10 of each size. You attach them using the cleco plier tool.

The tools above are plate nut drill jigs. A plate nut is a small plate that gets rivetted on an aluminum skin or support. The center has a little cylinder is threaded. In other words, a little device that allows you to put a screw in from the other side.

Since drilling these small holes has to be very precise in order to have a nicely set plate nut, easiest way to do this is to use this little tool. I got them for the #6 and #8 screws. These are not standard in the kit and should be purchased separatly.

Every builders best friend: the 3M scotchbrite wheel cut and polish wheel. The kit also comes with a S/BRITE WHEEL KIT. This contains some smaller diameter wheels that can be used in the air grinder.

The rolled sandpaper is 240grit EMERY cloth role. ALUMINUM OXIDE Perfect for deburring, smoothing, and cleaning metal surfaces. Made with aluminum oxide material coat on jeans cloth backing. 2” wide X 25 ft. roll. >>2400 240 (Fine)

5 SCOTCH-BRITE HAND PADS. Use for cleaning and preparing aluminum aircraft skins before priming & painting, remove rust, corrosion, discoloration, & other surface contaminates. Gives a smoother & better finish than other abrasives. Non-woven nylon abrasive 6” X 9” sheets . Most popular and versatile grade . MAROON color.

The Vixen file. I believe this speaks for itself. I remember my fellow builders told me to use this as a knife. Always perpedicular on de workpiece.

Here are the deburring tools. Deburring is absolutly necessary for a number of reasons. First of all, non deburred material can create cracks when stress is applied which results later on in failure of the piece. I assume we all agree that a broken wing skin at FL100 is not a nice sight and that we want to avoid that at all cost. So deburring is nothing to go over lightly. Secondly, non deburred material can create nasty cuts while working with the material.

On the left, you see the drill hole deburring tool (speed deburr and countersink tool). It comes with a little extention piece for hard to reach places. The top looks like a large size drill head. Don't over-do the deburring with this. One or two turns is more then enough in order not to take away too much of the material. Certainly with thin skin aluminum sheet, special attention is needed.

On the right side, the yellow tool is the ROYAL MULTI-BURR DEBURRING TOOL This deburring tool has blades that swivel to follow the contour of the work; great for deburring lightening holes and edges of aluminum parts. Blades store conveniently in the handle when not being used. Blades are interchangeable by depressing the latch button. Comes with five (5) assorted style blades. On the left of it (the gray v-shape head tool) is the DOUBLE EDGE DEBURRING TOOL Used to quickly deburr edges of sheets up to 1/8” thick. Saves time and motion deburring edges of parts. One pass usually gets both edges of a part. Precision ground Carbide “V” shape blade with hex aluminum handle. Non-removable cutter style.

These are all the drill bits that come with the avery kit. They claim it is sufficient for the whole plane but I have some question marks on that.

40 #40 COBALT DRILLS (8 PCS)
30 #30 COBALT DRILLS (6 PCS)
21 #21 COBALT DRILLS (3 PCS)
27 #27 COBALT DRILLS (3 PCS)
19 #19 COBALT DRILLS (2 PCS)
12 #12 COBALT DRILLS (2 PCS)
1/4 1/4" COBALT DRILL (1 PC)
12X40 #40 X 12" EXTENSION DRILL
12X30 #30 X 12" EXTENSION DRILL

The image on the right shows some dril stops to protect the skins when match drilling or final drilling. The colored plates are rivet-gauges to check the size of the set rivet.

A unibit step drill. ( #3 1/4" to 3/4")

Two chucking reamers. Used to enlarge drilled holes. These are not standard in the kit. I ordered them seperatly.

The drive punched on the right are standard in the kit. 3/32" drive pin punch and 1/8" drive pin punch. You can already guess it, these are for hitting out faulty rivets. I sincerely hope I will need to use these as little as possible.

The kit comes with 2 books. The "standard aricraft handbook" and the "A/C structural technician handbook".

I started reading the first one. It contains some very theoretical sections on alloys that are kind of boring when you buy a kit. But there are also some very good sections on rivetting techniques, countersinking, dimpling and a lot of charts and reference tables that will be very usefull in the building process.

Another tool that is not in the kit but that you definitly will need. A torque wrench in inch/pounds. It's also one of the more expensive tools and is a high precision instrument. They come calibrated with a certificate. In Belgium you need this in order to be allowed to use it. Later you might also need to buy a second torque wrench in foot / lbs for torqueing bolt on the propellor eg but this is not necessary from the start. You definitly need the one in inch/lbs

The type I have bought is called a click-type torque wrench. They also exist with a dial that records the maximum pulled torque. But I would recommend this type as it's much smaller and easier to use in hard to reach locations.

20-150 in. lb. / 1/4” drive / .70# weight / 1 in.lb increments reading 10” long x .65” diameter handle. Avery PART# 4920. Later on you will be needing also a heavier torque wrench in foot pounds for the propellor and engine.

Some often used torque values will be 20-25 inch/lbs for an3 bolts in combination with AN365-1032 nuts and 50-70 inch/lbs for AN4 with AN365-428 nuts. (the values can be looked up in the standard aircraft handbook or "the bible" (being the AC43.13 1B chapter 7 from page 6 which you can find here)

Some advice on using the torque wrench :

- A torque wrench is a calibrated device. In principle it has to be regularily re-calibrated.

- Whenever you are finished working with it, make sure to re-adjust it to the zero position so the pressure is off the spring.

- When attaching a nut, first use a regular wrench to fasten the nut, then switch to the torque wrench to do the last part.

- Always torque the Nut, not the bolt head.

- First thighten the nut on the bolt with a regular key. Only use the torque wrench to do the final adjustment to the correct torque setting.

A Caliper. Measures inside distances and outside. I bought this one in a home depot on the way back from Canada in Burlington. It has a handy conversion function from inches to mm.

This one only shows actual inch measurements in thousands of inch which is sufficient but not very conventient. I ended up calculating fractions in thousands all the time and go really nuts on thousands values.
Better is to buy one that shows the fractions as real fractions like (5/16", 3/8", 23/64"). I bought one likte that later on to make my life easier and especially to stop the insanity of wanting to be always precise up to 0.001"

Air tool oil and Boelube. Oiling your airtools is crucial for lifetime of your airtools. Couples of drops in the tool every working day will do the job.

The boelube is a kind of paste that is used to facilitate drilling. (not part of kit)

To be complete, I also have to mention that the kit also contains an edge roller tool and an air flow control valve.

A toolbox with lots of compartiments. This is not an absolute necessity as all rivets and bolts come in little bags. But organising them in this way makes life easier and facilitates the search for a particular part when needed. With a dymo stickermaker, I labeled the boxes according to the namings on the plans and the bags. What you see in the picture is the content of hardware for the empenage kit.

So far the overview of the tools. I hope I have been able to provide some new builders with a good introduction to what is needed to start building. I took me a long time to take the final decisions who to go with, at what price and what to buy extra.
If I find and defects or bad experiences with one of the tools, I will post it hear later on. But so far... after first testing, all works absolutly fine.

 

 

 

 

Some more tools bought along the way...

The picture below  show a center drill. It can be used on both side and has the same effect both ways.

The center drill is used to make a first pilot hole for larger drill sizes. I use it quite often to make the initial positioning of the hole in my bench drill.

They are designed to drill a small diameter pilot hole followed by a 60° countersink that provides a bearing surface for the 60° point. Center drills are also used extensively with the milling machine to accurately start holes

Bought another unitbit, this time the small needle version. 

Unibits should always be used to make larger diameter holes in sheet aluminum. Don't use regular drill bits in sheet aluminum. An even better solution for deeper holes are the Rotacut drill sets but they are quite expensive.

Ahaaaa.. here is one of my favorite new tools : the drilling housing and bushing kit.

It's a hand held guide to keep you drill bits at exactly 90° to the skin surface. It speeds things up a lot as you don't have to constantly care about being perpendicular. Result: speed increase and better quality holes. Just setup the drill in the air drill so that the length of the drill bit remaining is slightly longer then the hight of the bush housing + material thickness and fire away.
The drill bushing can be interchanged in the same housing. This tool is also often refered to as an “eye cup” drill guide. It's made of clear plastic for easy viewing of hole location while drilling. The threaded drill bushing size -1/2-13 threads. Kit has (4) bushing: #40, #30, #21, #10 + 1 housing

I slightly grinded little of the plastic out of the bottom on one end because it fits better then in the spacing between two holes when one of them has a cleco in it. This tool is a must have if speed is important for you.

Got another bucking bar. Very thin and small point. Haven't had a lot of success yet in using it. I bought it for rivetting the end rivets in the end of the triangle shaped ribs for the elevators and rudder - hoping I could set the end rivets on the narrow end with this - but never had any success and used pop rivets after all.

A fly - cutter.

Install this in the bench  drill for making variable size large circular cut outs out of aluminum sheet.
This is a very dangerous tool ! Handle with care and NEVER EVER use it in a hand drill. Always in the bench drill.

They are kind of hard to find. I found mine at Sears.

3M 2'' SUPER FINE DISC and 3M 2" disc pad holder.

3M ROLOC™ discs and holders feature a threaded male button attached to the back of each disc for quick and easy mounting to the ROLOC™ (female threaded) pad holder. With a quick half-turn, the disc is locked securely in place.
You install the holder in the die grinder.

The super fine disc is a kind of polishing disc. I turn it at high speed and use it to buff out light scratches in aluminum parts.

Digital laser level from Avery tools.

Check plumb and level using the traditional bubble vials and measure slope angles in degrees and percentage using the digital functions. You can even measure relative slope angles and the built-in laser projects level and plumb lines as well as angle settings onto surrounding surfaces. Accuracy is +0.1°. Calibrations are simple to do and requires no other measuring instruments.
I used it to level all my jigs.

Aluminum tubing bender (Imperial eastman)

Will be used primarily for bending the aluminum tubes for the fuel line system.

Tool for creating flares in aluminum tubing. (PARKER 37ø ROLO-FLAIR FLARING PARKER)

Liquid Boelube.
I had used the hard wax stule boelube so far. This one is liquid and ensures a longer life time of your drill bits and lubricates while drilling more difficult and thicker material.

Bought the next in Belgium. Lithium grease to grease the air tools like the internal mechanism of the pneumatic squeezer.

Rapid tap cutting fluid. 

EZ Turn Lube or also called FueLube 5 Oz tube.

EZ Turn is a specialty lubricant/ sealant used for fuel and oil line valves and is resistant to high temperatures. It is expecially effective where high octane fuels & harsh enviroments are presents. EZ Turn is also extremely efficient as a gasket paste and anti-seize agent. EZ Turn will not gum, crack or dry out. Good to temperature range of 600° F. Excellent for tapered valves, aircraft engine manufacturing, and marine applications. EZ Turn is the functional equivalent of Fuelube. Mil-G-6032D AM1 Type 1 Military specified Lubricant.

Assortment of tapping bits with corresponding drill bits.Needed them first time to tap the thread in the tiedown ring bracket on the wing.

Telescopic Inspection mirror.

What if you can't see the inside ? This tool will help. Put some light in and look with the mirror at the work you did.

#1to #60 COBALT DRILL SET from avery tools

In some occasions, you'll need to drill a number that was not given in the standard toolkit (eg #11) . A versatile drill set will avoid frustration and delay just because you didn't have the right drill bit.

Safety gear !

Plastic safety glasses that close on the sides, Ear protection for during rivetting and long drilling sessions and a set of Craftmans gloves.

How good is it to build an airplane if you are going to loose half of your hearing ability during unprotected rivetting... Not... so wear them. (Also when it's warm)

Caution: never use gloves when using a circular saw if you like your fingers !

In a previous article on tools, I have shown the small 1" deburring tools that fit into the die grinder.
I added this picture to give you an idea of how they will look like after you used them for deburring and polising the edge of the lightning holes in the ribs.

Plumb bobs.
You will need at least 2 of these. 3 is better. They will be used first to measure the twist in the wing by hanging them on a fishwire on the main spar and measuring then the distance to the rear spar of the wing.

The pneumatic squeezer...

My all time favorite.

I hesitated long time to buy this as I was thinking that this is pure luxury and I could do it all by hand.
Forget about it. I got the avery hand squeezer and after dimpling the empenage, I ended up having a tennis elbow. The 4 doctor visits in the meanwhile have costed me as much as this tool costs.

Connect the squeezer to the air line and set the PSI to 90. The squeezer will produce a force of 3000 psi on the ram.
You can use it to squeeze rivets (especially those 1/8" that are hard by hand). You can also use it to dimple spars and ribs. Skins should be avoided and done with the C-Frame.
Don't set the pressure too high when dimpling. All that force will litteraly squeeze the material and deform it. So handle with care on dimpling.
Look twice while dimpling. Not aligning the dimple on a skin of rib will push the male die right through the material next to the hole creating what is known as an 'short eight as a hole'. So be carefull upon dimpling... I warned you.

Get one, you won't regret. I promise. You can't live a happy life without it !

An aluminume tubing cutter.

This small size is used for the 1/4" vent tubes and 3/8 fuel tubes. Don't use a hack saw to cut tubes. the cut needs to be as clean as possible if you want to pull flares on  them.

Cut with this little device. Set the cutter against the aluminum, on the first turn, make sure the cutter is straight back on the initial spot, then give it half a turn on the know and rotate again and again until it feels free turning again, then give it another half turn and repeat the procedure until it cuts off. This will produce a very smooth cut. Use sandpaper when cut to sand down slightly at 90° angle before pulling a flare. Rotate sandpaper around the end so the sleeve will move on easily.

 

Here are some more tools I acquired later on in the build and that I believe are usefull or necessary.

A Ratchet screwdriver

I used this tool the first time in Freds workshop when attaching some adel clamps. This screwdriver uses extention bits and can rotate left and right (righty thighty, lefty loosy). The advantage is that the screw driver bits can stay on the screw while screwing the vise in. The more you lift and reposition the screwdriver, the more wear on the head. This ratchet screwdriver allows you to position once and then screw the vise in completly without lifting it again just as with a socket wrench. Worth the 10 bucks.

You can find them everywhere in home improvement shops as Lowes, Home depot's, Ace, Harbor Freight, Sears, ...

Allen wrench set

At some point, I had to thighten a vise that sets the stall warner body in the leading edge of the wing. The screw had an allen wrench style head. Optimistically, I took out my European allen wrench set and noticed that also in allen wrench keys, there are imperial sizes.
Damn ! Picked this one up at Ace hardware.

Hole saw cutter kit

In various locations, you will need to saw holes out of a plate. (lightning holes, firewall passthrough for heat box, ...) These holes are far beyond the reach of a unibit.

This cutter set is from Harbor Freight tools, costed 40$ and goes up to 2.5 inch. Pay attention when buying to make sure it cuts metal ! There are plastic and wood versions also.

Don't expect miracles from these, they make very rough and unprecise cuts but it gets you real close to the dimension you want and you can clean up and ream out the rest with a 3M deburring wheel on the die grinder.

I never use these on the precise size required but go undersize and then finish is of with other tools.

Rotary cutter toolset

The rotacut kit does more or less the same thing as the hole saw kit. But,... it does it with great precision. It goes deep at the same size, something you can't get with a unibit because of the step up nature of the unibit.
With these cutters, you can cut so precise that it would be as equal as using a drill bit.
Where do you need it eg: the reinforcement angle in the leading edge of the fuel tank, to cut the fuel passthrough to the flop tube, cutting larger size passthrough bulkheads for the vent lines and static lines, ...

These allow you to make very precise cuts and nice clean holes from thin to even thick material.

Angle cutter

This is kind of luxury but I kind of like safety. You can install a 3 inch cutting wheel on the normal die grinder but when it breaks, you are unprotected. (I do hope you are smart enough to wear safety glasses and earing protection).
There is also the hassle each time to take of the wheel and put on another accessory (the lazyness factor).

Therefor decided to buy this 3 inch cutting wheel air powered cutter with protective shield around the disc.
I got it at Harbor Freight in promotion for 10$.

Red RTV

Buy this at Autozone. The paste is used for firewall application. The red one can withstand the highest temperatures. The black one is used to glue stuff in but should not be used in high temperature areas.

Oil fogger

I'm tired of putting drops of oil in my air tools each time I start using them. So, bought this oil fogger to install behind the water filter.
I will need a T split piece in between so I can tap air with and without oil.

Side note: something I learned from Hugo, you can not use air tool oil in the pneumatic squeezer. There is some part in leather (?) in the squeezer and it deteriorates when exposed to oil.

Longeron dies

Bending the longerons freaks me out. I'm scared to death to mess it up, having to order and ship them again from Vans. Special crating, extreme long part and shipping expense above my calculated budget.

I found these longeron bending dies specially made for the RV-7. At least it takes part of the risk away.

Found them at Buller Enterprises. Follow the link.

1/8 inch pop rivet dimpler set.

Needed when building the fuselage. 1/8 pop rivet dimpler set to make dimples for AN426AD4 rivets in places where the squeezer of C-frame can't reach. (mid of firewall eg).

LPS-3 rust inhibitor

Fred informed me some time ago that some of the delivered parts start rusting on the inside if not treated (inside of tail wheel fork, rudder pedals, ...)

To protect against this, spray som LPS3 inside and you're good for a year. Bought at Ace Hardware store.

 

How to use

Use the kit buttons in the top ribbon bar to see a chronological overview per sub section per kit. For the full chronological article list, see chronological build link in prelude menu here below. The easiest way to lookup information is by typing in some part numbers or keywords using the search option in the ribbon bar

 

Caution !

Some advice on reading my log for fellow builders !

In some articles, I made corrections at later date on the original article to rectify my own stupidities or faults. Read through the entire article if you intend to use my findings/experiences on your own project !

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It’s possible (not likely) that I’m not as smart as I think I am. (Occasionally, I have moments when I know this to be true. Fortunately, the feeling passes quickly.) Although I have tried to make this information as accurate as I can, it is not only possible, but also quite likely, that erroneous and misguided information lurks within these pages. I cannot and do not warrant these pages to be error free and correct. Furthermore, I accept no liability for the use of this (mis)information. And, as many would say, your mileage may vary. If, after reading this, you are intent on proceeding, please be aware that the contents of this site are protected by copyright (copyright © 2011 and 2012). Nonetheless, you may copy this material subject to these two conditions: (1) any information used is for non-commercial purposes, and (2) the source of the material is properly credited. Of course, you may link to any page herein. At some articles, snippets of the plans from Vans are visible. These are for educational and illustrations purposes only and should never be used as plans for part construction or assembly as plans may have changed since the picture was taken and more important they are protected by Copyright by the Vans Aircraft Mothership company.

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